A taller cat tree with more levels sounds like the upgrade that finally gets a cat using its own furniture instead of the couch arm. Often, though, the problem isn't the tree at all — it's where it ended up. A tree tucked into the wrong spot can sit mostly untouched no matter how many platforms it has, while a smaller one in the right location gets used every day. Before buying anything bigger, it's worth working through where a cat tree actually belongs in a room.

Does a window view actually matter?

It's one of the most repeated pieces of cat-tree advice, and it holds up: the joint AAFP and ISFM feline environmental needs guidelines note that "indoor resting areas, such as a perch or secluded surface, should include a location that allows the cat visibility of the outdoors." Being able to watch birds, traffic, or weather from a safe, elevated spot is itself a form of enrichment — it's a big part of why window perches get used so consistently once cats discover them.

That said, a window isn't automatically the right window. Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Meghan Herron and Dr. Tony Buffington, writing for the American Association of Feline Practitioners, point out that resting areas should stay clear of stressors — including "outdoor cats approaching the windows." If a particular window looks out on a yard or alley where neighborhood cats pass through regularly, that view can put a resident cat on edge instead of settling it. The fix is usually simple: pick a different window with a calmer view, or position the tree far enough back that the window is visible without being the main event.

A quiet corner beats a busy hallway

Elevated height is partly about safety, not just vantage point. The same guidelines describe perches as needing to be "safe from people and other animals," and recommend that safe havens sit in "quiet areas of the home." A tree placed where foot traffic passes constantly, right by a front door, or next to a washing machine or vacuum closet works against that — a cat climbing up only to be startled every ten minutes isn't getting much rest out of it.

A corner of a living room, a quiet end of a bedroom, or a converted reading nook tends to outperform a hallway or an entryway, even when the hallway technically has more open floor space. The goal isn't isolation — most cats still like being near the household's activity — just enough physical buffer that climbing up feels like retreating to a lookout, not standing in the middle of traffic.

How far from the litter box is far enough?

Placement relative to other resources matters as much as placement relative to foot traffic. The AAFP/ISFM guidelines are specific here: "each key resource should be placed in its own location, separate from other resources," and "ample physical separation should be maintained between toileting areas and other environmental resources." A resting and climbing spot pushed up against the litter box, or crammed next to the food and water station, blurs resources that a cat's instincts expect to stay apart.

In practice, that means giving a cat tree its own patch of floor — not directly beside the litter box, and not stacked into the same corner as the feeding station. Even a few feet of separation is usually enough to keep the tree feeling like its own distinct spot rather than an extension of a different resource entirely.

One per territory, not just one per cat

In multi-cat homes, where a tree goes matters as much as how many there are. The same guidelines state that "multiple safe places should be in areas separated from each other" — scattered across different rooms or zones, not clustered together even if that would be more convenient to set up. Two trees pushed into the same corner don't function much differently than one slightly bigger tree; cats still end up negotiating over the same patch of territory.

Spreading elevated resting spots to different rooms — one in a quiet bedroom corner, another near a calm window in a different part of the home — gives each cat somewhere to retreat without competing for the same real estate. It's a smaller, often-overlooked adjustment that tends to matter more than adding height or levels to a single tree.

FAQ

If a cat already ignores its current tree, will moving it help?

Often, yes. A tree that's been placed against the behavior patterns above — too exposed, too close to the litter box, facing a stressful window — can go from ignored to regularly used once it's relocated, even with no other changes. Give a new spot a week or two before judging whether it worked; cats take some time to treat a moved piece of furniture as part of their normal route.

Is a sunny window always a good choice?

Mostly, but not without limits. Direct sun through glass can make a perch uncomfortably warm in the middle of the day, and fabric surfaces can fade faster with constant UV exposure. A spot with morning or indirect light, or a window with sheer curtains, usually gets just as much use as full all-day sun — without the midday heat.

What if there's only one open spot in the whole room?

One reasonable spot beats a perfect one left unused. If there's only a single viable corner, prioritize getting it away from the litter box and the loudest foot-traffic path first — those two adjustments do more for how often a tree gets used than finding the single best window view.

Our Pick: The ZEZE Little Farm Cat Tree Collection

ZEZE Sheep 38-in Polyester Cat Tree with Tunnel & Scratcher is sized for exactly the kind of placement described above: compact enough to tuck into a quiet corner or bedroom nook without eating up floor space, with a built-in tunnel for a low, enclosed retreat and a raised top perch for the lookout spot. Sisal-wrapped scratching posts run the height of the piece, so climbing, scratching, and resting all happen in one footprint small enough to keep well clear of a litter box or feeding station.

For a lower-profile option that fits neatly beneath a window, ZEZE Farm Cow-Print 2-Tier Plush Scratching Post Condo sits at just 26.77 inches tall, with two platform levels and an enclosed plush condo plus a sunflower spring toy. Removable, velcro-attached side panels let the condo switch between an open layout and a fully enclosed hideaway, so the same piece can face toward a calm window view on one setting and close off into a quiet retreat on the other.

Sources: Ellis et al., "AAFP and ISFM Feline Environmental Needs Guidelines," Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery, 2013; Herron, M.E. and Buffington, C.A.T., "Environmental Enrichment for Indoor Cats," Compendium: Continuing Education for Veterinarians, 2010 (The Ohio State University / American Association of Feline Practitioners)